Acacia Pinot Noir 2004

Region: Napa Valley- Carneros
Varietal: Pino Noir
Year: 2004
Price $23
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The deep, ruby-red color is an initial clue as to the intensity of this wine. The nose combines roasted coffee, Satsuma plum and allspice, with more subtle notes of red currant, licorice and wet earth. Concentrated flavors of plum, coffee and cola complement the textural finesse of the silky mid-palate. Muscular but fine tannins define the long, broad finish while vanilla, bittersweet chocolate and cherry complete the experience.

The acidity, fruit flavors, oak, and minerals are all so well balanced that it’s hard to believe this is a 2004 wine. Usually, something this young is a little wonky and definitely rough around the edges. Time in the bottle smoothes things out and helps all the elements to better integrate.

But right out of the gate, the Acacia is full, yet bright and as polished as a Fulbright scholar. Cherry is the predominant flavor, but it doesn’t bury the spice or oak. It’s a sexy wine that is fruit-forward without being a fruit bomb – a little like showing a bit of cleavage without popping right out.

The finish is wonderful; it may be my favorite part of the wine. Light oak tannins are there, but don’t get at all in the way of the cherry, raspberry and earth flavors that last longer than the embarrassment arising from dumping a winery’s pour/spit bucket down your gullet and shirt. (Really, you gotta see the movie.)

The new pinot craze is bound to bring about a lot of wine that has no business being bottled and sold. Pinot noir is hard to grow and make, and a lot of wineries just shouldn’t. But this Acacia is one that you can confidently and affordably pick up. Thanks to the synthetic closure used (that’s a good thing… honest) you don’t even have to worry about getting a corked bottle (and that’s a bad thing… honest).

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