Paris Wine Bars

The wine bars I most enjoy are those that open early in the morning, have an unpretentious neighborhood atmosphere, and feature good food, friendly people and reasonable prices. Most of the wines offered at these places sell for anywhere from 5 -10 Euro per glass and one can easily dine at most of these places for under 12 Euro. I especially those wine bars whose owners re- cognize that wine is meant to be drunk with food, and whose specialties are simple, bistro style dishes that can range from cold plates of cheese or charcuterie especially designed to match the wines that are being offered. My true favorites have no printed menus, and both the wines and the daily culinary offerings are hand-written on blackboards that are hung behind the bar.

Caves Petrissans, 30 bis Avenue Niel, Paris 17. In the same family since 1895, this is a place where clochards and millionaires stand side by side at the bar sipping whatever wines that the Petrissan brothers and sisters have just added to their list or tasting the best of the 1985 Bordeaux vintage. Daily offerings such as the rabbit terrine, lamb stew or rabbit with mustard make for great and reasonable priced lunches or dinners. Some say that the place looks run down. They are probably right, but regulars know that this illusion is maintained primarily to keep too many tourists from invading. Directly attached to the bar is a wine store in which you can find some excellent bargains.

Cafe de la Nouvelle Marie: 19 rue des Fosses St. Jacques, Paris 5. Not far from the Pantheon and the Luxembourg gardens, and offering just twelve wines daily (many from Chinon, Saumur-Champigny, and Sancerre), this always crowded but always friendly place is a great place to pass a few hours. If you are hungry feast while standing at the bar on the mixed hors d'oeuvres, the carpaccio of duck breast, or the country style pates. (Prices are nearly double if you take a table).

Les Pipus: 2 rue de l'Ecole Polytechnic. Paris 5. With its old, well worn wooden bar and 1930s atmosphere, this is the kind of wine bar you would expect to find more in a tiny village than in Paris. That should stop nobody from visiting be- cause one of the specialties here are the best of the least known wines of Bordeaux, and the Loire and Rhone valleys. The Alsatian style food (choucroute garni, pork braised in beer, and quiches) are all worth trying and all cost remarkably little.

Jacques Melac, 42 rue Leon-Front, Paris 11. 0ZÌ Not far from Place de la Bastille, this intimate and lively wine bar specializes in wines from Chinon, Beaujolais, Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, Vouvrey and Beajolais. Wine is taken so seriously here that a sign on one wall tells you that "If you want water, you must place your order one day in advance". Lunch time is very crowded here, but you can almost always get a place alongside the bar, there to enjoy either the cold meats or cheeses (try especially the bleu des Causses and the Saint- Nectaire) for which the place is renowned.

Willi's Wine Bar, 13 rue des Petites-Champs, Paris 1. More expensive than most, largely because it attracts the yuppies of Paris and many visiting tourists, but worth visiting anyhow, this bright, airy place serves great wines and excellent foods. On my own last visit, I sampled four different Hermitage wines, two excellent Julianas, and three really interesting white wines from Chateauneuf du Pape. Food is somewhat expensive here, but if you're on a budget, don't hesitate to order the mixed plate of cold meats and cheeses which will be served with what may be the most delicious bread in all of Paris.

Le Tartine: 24 rue de Rivoli, Paris 4.

Bistro des Augustins, 39 quai des Grands Augustins, Paris 5.

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